Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are one of the most commonly kept pet lizards for good reason: they stay a manageable size, feed readily, and usually become calm with gentle handling. With good care they live 15–20 years, so this is a long commitment — and most of the care comes down to five things: a big enough enclosure, a proper heat gradient, three hides, a solid substrate, and live insects dusted with calcium.
At a glance
- Adult size: 7–10 inches (18–25 cm)
- Lifespan: 15–20 years with good care
- Enclosure: 20-gallon minimum; 40 gallons recommended for an adult
- Basking surface: 88–92°F (31–33°C), measured with an infrared thermometer
- Cool side: 70–77°F (21–25°C); night not below 65°F (18°C)
- Humidity: 30–40% ambient, plus a humid hide
- Diet: Live, gut-loaded insects dusted with calcium
The enclosure: floor space first
An adult needs a terrarium with a footprint of about 90 × 45 cm — a 20-gallon long tank is the minimum, and a 40-gallon is better. Leopard geckos are ground-dwelling, so length and width matter more than height. The enclosure needs a secure lid: geckos climb more than beginners expect, and crickets escape through gaps.
Substrate should be solid and safe. Paper towel, tile, or reptile carpet are the safe beginner choices. Loose substrates such as sand carry an impaction risk, especially for juveniles — if you use a loose substrate, choose one designed for the species and feed outside the enclosure or from a dish.
Heating: a gradient, not a single temperature
Heat should come mainly from above — a halogen bulb or deep heat projector controlled by a thermostat — warming one end of the enclosure so the gecko can choose its temperature. Do not manage heat by feel: use digital thermometers and confirm the basking surface with a probe or infrared thermometer.
- Basking surface: 88–92°F (31–33°C)
- Warm side air: 82–86°F (28–30°C)
- Cool side: 70–77°F (21–25°C)
- Night: 65–75°F (18–24°C); no lower than 65°F (18°C)
Leopard geckos need warm ground to digest food — a few degrees too cool for a week and digestion slows, appetite drops, and shedding goes wrong. Provide 10–12 hours of light per day for a clear day–night cycle. Low-level UVB is beneficial, though many keepers manage without it by supplementing calcium with D3 — check current guidance for your setup and follow one coherent supplementation plan.
Three hides, always
Every enclosure needs at least three hides:
- Warm hide over the heated end, for digesting after meals.
- Cool hide on the unheated end, for escaping the heat.
- Humid hide with damp sphagnum moss or damp paper towel, kept moist but not wet or mouldy — this is essential for clean shedding.
Without a humid hide, shed skin sticks to toes and eyes, and stuck shed can cut off circulation to toes. A shallow water dish with fresh water should always be available; geckos may not drink visibly every day, but dehydration quickly affects shedding, appetite, and general condition.
Feeding: varied insects, gut-loaded and dusted
Leopard geckos are strict insectivores — no fruit, no vegetables. Rotate gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, and mealworms as part of a varied diet. Waxworms are a rare fatty treat, not a staple. Never feed fireflies (toxic, can be fatal), wild-caught insects (pesticide and parasite risk), or prey larger than the space between the gecko’s eyes.
- Juveniles: feed daily, as much as they will eat in about 15 minutes.
- Adults: feed every 2–3 days, in measured portions — obesity is common in captive leopard geckos, and an obese gecko has a very thick tail, fat pads, and reduced activity.
- Supplements: dust insects with calcium at every feeding (with D3 if you do not use UVB), and a reptile multivitamin about once a week.
Remove uneaten crickets — they can bite a sleeping gecko.
Handling and shedding
Let a new gecko settle in for a week before handling, and keep handling sessions short and low to the ground. Leopard geckos drop their tails when grabbed by them, so never pick one up by the tail. A healthy gecko sheds every few weeks in one or two clean pieces and usually eats the shed skin. If shed sticks, check the humid hide first — a warm, damp hide and a shallow lukewarm soak are the usual fixes. Persistent stuck shed, weight loss, mouth issues, or appetite changes are reasons to see an exotics vet.
Common mistakes
- One temperature for the whole tank. Without a gradient, the gecko cannot regulate its body temperature.
- No humid hide. The most common cause of shedding problems.
- Sand substrate for a juvenile. Impaction risk is highest in young geckos.
- One feeder insect forever. Variety prevents nutritional gaps.
- Overfeeding adults. Adults need two or three meals a week, not daily feeding.
Sources
- Leopard Gecko Guides — Leopard Gecko Care Guide: https://www.leopardgeckoguides.com/leopard-gecko/care-guide/
- All Reptiles — Leopard Gecko Care Sheet: https://allreptiles.ca/blogs/care-guides/leopard-gecko-care-sheet
- Herpeton Academy — Leopard Gecko caresheet: https://academy.herpeton.net/en/caresheets/geckos/eublepharis-macularius/
- Leopard Geckos Reptiles — Leopard Gecko Care Guide for Beginners: https://www.leopardgeckosreptiles.com/care/leopard-gecko-care-guide
- Wild Heart Exotics — Leopard Gecko Care Guide: https://www.wildheartexotics.com/blogs/news/leopard-gecko-care-guide