Praying mantises are one of the most entertaining pets you can keep in a small space: they watch you, track prey with their heads, and hunt with a precision that looks almost intelligent. They are also short-lived — typically 6–12 months — so a mantis is a small commitment with a lot of personality per month. Most of the care comes down to three things: a tall enclosure, the right live prey, and leaving the animal completely alone while it moults.
Common pet species include the Chinese mantis (Tenodera sinensis), the Carolina mantis (Stagmomantis carolina), and the European mantis (Mantis religiosa). The guidance below covers the commonly kept species; exact temperature and humidity needs vary by species, so check the care sheet for yours.
At a glance
- Lifespan: typically 6–12 months
- Enclosure: at least 3× the mantis’s body length in height, 2× in width
- Temperature: 70–85°F (21–29°C); many hardy species are comfortable at room temperature
- Humidity: 40–60% for most species (tropical species higher, up to 80%)
- Diet: live insects only — fruit flies for nymphs, flies, roaches, and crickets for adults
- Feeding: nymphs daily; adults every 2–3 days
The enclosure: tall, ventilated, and climbable
The size rule is simple and non-negotiable: the enclosure should be at least three times the mantis’s body length in height and twice its length in width. A mantis needs that height to moult — it hangs upside down and sheds its skin downward, and if it touches the floor mid-moult it can deform or die. For an average adult, that means roughly 12–15 inches tall and 8–10 inches wide.
Use a glass or plastic terrarium with a fine mesh screen lid for airflow — the mesh should be fine enough (around 1 mm) to keep fruit-fly food from escaping, while letting air through. Furnish it with clean dried branches and real or artificial plants for climbing and hiding, and a substrate that holds a little moisture without becoming soggy. Do not place the enclosure in direct sunlight, which can overheat it quickly, or in a draught near a window or air-conditioning vent.
Temperature and humidity
Most commonly kept mantises thrive at 70–85°F (21–29°C), and hardy species such as the Carolina and Chinese mantis are comfortable at normal room temperature, roughly 71–80°F (21–27°C). If your house regularly falls below 71°F (21°C), supplemental heating may be needed. A small night-time drop of a few degrees is natural and fine.
Humidity varies by species: generally 40–60%, with tropical species needing higher humidity and desert or flower species preferring drier conditions. Light misting with spring or filtered water once or twice a week is usually enough for beginners; nymphs dry out quickly, so mist them daily or provide a consistent water source. Avoid tap or distilled water for misting where possible, and never let water pool in the enclosure. Mantises drink water droplets from leaves and walls, so misting is also how they hydrate.
Feeding: live prey, sized to the mantis
Mantises are opportunistic predators that only take live prey. The rule is that prey should generally be no larger than the width of the mantis’s abdomen — oversized prey can injure the mantis, and crickets in particular can bite a moulting mantis.
- Nymphs: flightless fruit flies, daily or 5–6 times a week.
- Juveniles: house flies and green bottle flies as they grow.
- Adults: blue bottle flies, dubia roaches, adult crickets, moths, and mealworms as an occasional extra. Feed adults every 2–3 days, or once or twice a week once fully grown.
Feed with tweezers or tongs if you like, and remove uneaten food after 24 hours. Do not overfeed, especially before a moult — an overfed mantis moults badly. Avoid wild-caught insects, which may carry pesticides or parasites. Some keepers avoid crickets entirely because of the injury risk; flies and roaches are the safer staple.
Molting: the danger zone
A mantis moults 6–8 times in its life, and each moult is a risk. Before a moult it stops eating, hangs upside down, and goes still. Do not touch it, do not feed it, and do not mist it directly. Keep the humidity up, keep the enclosure still, and wait. A mantis that falls during a moult, or is disturbed mid-shed, can end up with bent legs or a stuck skin that it cannot survive. After the final moult, wait a day or two before feeding while the new exoskeleton hardens.
Housing and handling
House mantises singly. Most species are cannibalistic — cohabitation usually ends with one mantis eating the other, and females famously eat males after mating. Each mantis needs its own enclosure.
Handle rarely and gently. A mantis can be coaxed onto a hand, but it is a fragile animal: a fall from height can injure it, and grabbing it can damage its legs. Most keepers handle their mantis only when moving it for cleaning. Wash your hands before handling — residues from soap, lotion, or food can harm the mantis — and never handle during or just after a moult.
Sources
- House of Mynia — Praying Mantis Care Guide: https://HOUSEOFMYNIA.COM/pages/praying-mantis-care-guide
- Carolina Biological Supply — Praying Mantis Care Guide: https://www.carolina.com/teacher-resources/Document/praying-mantis-care-handling-instructions/tr10536.tr
- 903 Pets — Praying Mantis for Beginners: Complete Care 101: https://903pets.com/praying-mantis-beginners-guide/
- DialaVet — Should You Keep a Praying Mantis as a Pet?: https://www.dialavet.com/blog/should-you-keep-a-praying-mantis-as-a-pet
- Reality Pathing — Steps to Care for a Pet Mantis Properly: https://realitypathing.com/steps-to-care-for-a-pet-mantis-properly/